The Northern Exposure (Ilocos Roadtrip)

Travel Date: March 20 - 25, 2016 (Sun - Fri)

Travel Buddies: Bagsy (Mike M)

Disclaimer: Another late blog but as they say, better late than never.

YT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN65tm2iZWA

Day1: Mar 20 (Sunday)  - Expressway, Seascapes, landscapes

Bagsy arrived the day before so we are both well rested and ready to explore the great north. We started out at half past 8 in the morning, traversing major thoroughfares and reached Pangasinan at lunchtime. We stopped by at a relatively new bulalohan after the last exit on TPLEX.  At around 3pm, we reached Ilocos Sur and passed by the famous bridge that was featured in one of the fave shows I was following the past months. We went to the old bridge and got lucky only a few came by. We got a few rare shots in the middle of the bridge and got the fantastic view of the mountains + sea + sunset all to ourselves. After satisfying ourselves with the instagrammable shots, we then headed to Laoag and arrived at our hotel (Gertel) at past 8pm. As soon as we settled in, we headed out to the city proper to have a taste of their delicacy and enjoy the colorful nights at the capitol area. As we got back to the hotel, we felt an eerie feeling as we passed by a cemetery which we didn't notice on our way out. The hotel seemed a bit remote so that added to the uncomfortable feeling. It was a relief when we finally reached it and took a quick dip before calling it a night.

Day2: Mar 21 (Monday) – Laoag

We woke up early to catch the famed sunrise and be there first before the influx of other tourists. Our guide Kuya Ronald of the Ilocos Lapaz Sand Dunes (contactable via their FB page and his numbers 0921 459 0190/ 0926 676 4686) guided us from the meeting point going to the actual site. Lo and behold, the sand greeted us with such surprise that you'd never imagine you are actually in the Philippines!! It seemed like we are transported to the Middle East because all we saw are sand, sand and more sand.  We started with the scary-hold-your-breath extreme 4x4 adventure ride that is not your usual flat surface kind of trail.  Rough and bumpy, we held on to the handrails and shouted our lungs out.  That was one exhilarating experience worth trying again!!!!

After the throat-punishing and heart-pumping ride, we were then led to a surprise treat -- a beach beside the sand dunes. That kind of calmed us a bit as we took some time to take a short stroll before heading back to the last activity -- sand surfing. So after a short thrill back to the main area, the "sand surfers" then begin to give us orientation on the basics of surfing on the sand. I tried sitting first before standing on the board just to get the feeling of it. It was so much fun that Bagsy and I tried to make it standing. One fall after the other until I finally made it on my 6th attempt. It was really so much fun!!!! And I must say that an hour of sand surfing is more than enough --- you just need to experience it once in your life!!!

After the adventure rush, we then headed to a few places we have planned out ahead including a few churches and museum. So off we go to Batac Museum and got a glimpse first hand of the life of the former president Marcos and how Ilocanos preserved their heritage. We were able to also see the wax body of the late president in the Mausoleum amidst strict security (no photos allowed inside). 

After the museum trip, we walked across the street towards a small restaurant to have their famous Empanada. Since I was a big fan of it, I tried all varieties and colors (yes they have different colors) and oh my, it never disappointed me!! After filling in our stomachs, we then headed to the Malacañang of the North, a presidential museum and used to be the residence of the late president Marcos when he was in Ilocos. As per history, the property was turned over to the provincial government and was made a tourist attraction that it is today. The two-storey mansion overlooking Paoay Lake has seven rooms representing themes of historical events from the Marcos era: Study, Agriculture, Diplomacy, OFW, Culture, Nation Building and Family.

We then headed to the historical Paoay church, which at that time was under some renovation, had dinner at a restaurant in front and headed back to Laoag for a last night glimpse of their colorful LED lights at the capital. 

Day3: Mar 22 (Tuesday) - Vigan

After our last morning breakfast at the hotel, we prepared for our next trip to yet another museum (Juan Luna in Badoc) before heading to Vigan.  At noon time, we arrived at a quiet and unassuming town of Badoc, Ilocos Norte to visit the residence of the famous Filipino master painter and patriot Juan Luna. There were not much tourist visiting so we had most of the time looking at all the nooks and crannies. We reckon the shrine/museum is not yet much known to tourists as the house has just been under many renovations. Glad we were able to get a glimpse of it before another set of renovations.

We then headed to Plaza Burgos, a famous landmark in Vigan where parking can be a bit of a challenge. After a short walk amidst the scorching heat, we decided to have a lunch in one of the famous restaurant along Calle Crisologo, particularly because it had good reviews online. Apparently, they are not ready for the onslaught of tourists as we have been served super late and that we think the food was kind of overrated. Nevertheless, we continued to stroll along Calle Crisologo and was transported immediately to the Spanish era by the rows of cobble stone houses before our own eyes. Indeed, it was a worthy historical feast every Filipino should experience. We decided to cut short our stroll as we will be checking in later as well on one of the hotels near Crisologo.

We headed to Baluarte for an entirely different experience -- this time a wildlife encounter, a combination of visual treat from animals that we usually see in a safari or zoo from tiger to deer down to peacock & a safari gallery of the preserved remains of animals the owner hunted from various parts of the world.

After an hour and a half, we then headed to another visual treat experience -- this time a semi-abandoned bridge offering a view of the mountains alongside a beautiful sunset. So off we go and headed to Santa-Nagpanaoan, took a short detour and marveled at the beauty of nature that is before us. Indeed it was beyond majestic!!!

After dusk, we headed back to Vigan and took another detour for a food and nature trip. Vigan Hidden Garden is indeed a welcome respite for tired and hungry souls like us. Despite the limited time, we were able to enjoy the food and nature trip before checking in to My Vigan Home, a contemporary vintage Spanish house built within the vicinity of the famed Calle Crisologo. We ended the day by a last minute stroll along Calle to get some pasalubong to families and friends.  

Day4: Mar 23 (Wednesday) – Vigan, Pagudpud

Before we end our Vigan trip, we decided to pass by the nearby Syquia Mansion, residence of former president Elpidio Quirino. The mansion displayed presidential memorabilia and Philippine antiques that gave visitors an idea of the typical homes in Vigan during Hispanic and post Hispanic times. We were also given the opportunity to look through the peeping holes found in the master’s bedroom and the second floor which are used to view visitors on the receiving area before they are allowed to enter the living room, an interesting piece of discovery of our history. 

We then headed to a place where a former Ilocano colleague of mine recommended, Dingras Madongan Dam. Passing on semi-rough and a few unpaved roads, we arrived at the Dam at half past 1pm, just on time for a well-deserved dip. With many vehicles parked along the dam, we can say it is rightfully gaining popularity among locals and tourists alike. The dam obviously newly built, is clean and refreshing, enticing me to have a dip myself. And indeed it was!!! It was super cool and refreshing!!! Just enough to refresh and sooth tired bodies!!! 

After an hour of well-deserved dip, we then headed to our homestay in Pagudpud, a place I just found out online, Cathy Homestay. At way past 9pm, we arrived at our homestay which is a few meters from the beachfront. We’ve had a good and refreshing day, preparing us for another adventure ahead of us.

Day5: Mar 24 (Thursday) - Pagudpud

Waking up to a new day, we took our breakfast in one of the nearby restaurants facing the beach front, a chill view without the crowds. I must say that Pagudpud’s Saud beach can compete with the rest of the beautiful beaches in the country – pristine, clean and not too much crowd even in peak seasons. As they say, it is the Boracay of the North minus the crowd and indeed it was!!!

 After breakfast, we then headed to the famed Bangui Windmills, a towering array of wind turbines stretching off the coast of Bangui Bay, facing West Philippine Sea. A symbol of sustainable and renewable energy, Bangui Windmill is not just an ordinary tourist attraction but a major contribution to sustainability and environment conservation, a thing to pat on for the local government. So kudos there!!!!

Next stop was Kapurpurawan Rock Formation, a geological art of nature consisting of smooth ivory limestone formed over time. From the main resting area, we had to walk more than half an hour to reach the limestone formation amidst the scorching heat. Despite that, it was all worth it – the view was amazingly beautiful, so instagrammable!!!

Moving on with our trip, we then went to the nearby attraction that was as towering as the windmills – Cape Bojeador, also known as the Burgos Lighthouse. A towering structure off the town of Burgos, Cape Bojeador, despite being built over 100 years is still functioning and serving ships plying the Philippine archipelago on the north side. Amazing that it can still work the way it should be despite its age.

Last stop -- we originally included a visit to Kabigan Falls on our way to Vigan but due to time constraint, we decided to find an alternate falls which we saw in one of the signs along the way -- Tanap Avis Falls. At first, the trail going to the falls was a bit scary or that maybe it was not too established yet. We had to pass by numerous detours and the lack of signs kind of gave us jitters. There are small wooden bridges that we need to pass on top of big rocks, giving us scare from time to time. After almost an hour of rock maneuvers, we finally reached the falls, albeit not in a spectacular fashion that we expected. It might be because it was summer time and that the water was not on its peak, with the falls only giving us few drops. Even so, we still managed to swim around and enjoy what we have. There were only a few tourists and locals visiting so we are both happy that it was not too crowded but at the same time a bit scared because the place seems to be remote. After a short swim, we then decided to head back to our homestay as we don’t want to be stranded in one way or another. Creepy but exciting I must say!!!

Day6: Mar 25 (Friday) – Manila bound

Can’t believe it was our last day already but yeah indeed it was!!! Hold on, something is missing!!! But of course -- the Ilocos trip will not be complete without a glimpse of the scenic and most photographed Patapat Viaduct. So with the last stop on our trip, we drove half an hour up north to see it for ourselves!! And man ohh man it was beyond mesmerizing!!! The sounds of the waves, the cars passing and winds blowing, indeed amazing!!!  

 Estimated Expenses: 

Item	Amount	Individual Expenses
Day 1 & 2 - Laoag (Gertes Resort Hotel and Restaurant)	2,278.50	1139.25
Day 3 - Vigan (My Vigan Home Hotel)	2,450.00	1225
Day 4 & 5 - Pagudpud (Carmen's Homestay)	4000	2000
Day 1 lunch, dinner **	800	400
Day 2 lunch, dinner **	800	400
Day 3 b/f, lunch, dinner **	100	50
Day 4 b/f, lunch, dinner **	1000	500
Day 5 b/f, lunch, dinner **	1000	500
Adrenaline tour (sandboard, 4x4) **	1200	600
Gas, tolls, food, drinks **	3000	1500
		0
		0
		8314.25
** estimated

Banaue - Batad - Sagada on the Love Month

Travel Date: February 11-16, 2016 (Thu - Tue)

Travel Buddies: Les, Shiela

YT channel links: 
Banaue - Batad - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dy-n_dI3Ebk
Bontoc - Sagada - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaSr5XLkmCc

Day0: Feb 11 (Thursday)

They say it's better late than never. It kind of describe this almost 2 year delayed blog. It was supposed to be written on the year of travel (2016) but got too busy and lazy to really sit and reminisce the moment. Thanks for the FB posts that Shiela, Les and I shared that kind of gave me refreshed memory.

So here we are, three independent women out to conquer the north on the love month. Personally, I've always loved the north, more so the Mountain Province and Ifugao area. And this trip is a familiar one, having done this 4 years ago (see "The Sagada Connection"). So I'm excited to see what's new but also prepared for a strenuous spelunking. I warned the girls it's not easy so they kind of prepared themselves for the "punishment". Although I was familiar with Sagada, Batad is relatively new to me. Back when we had Sagada trip then, we only passed by Banaue and only got the glimpse of the famed Rice Terraces from one of the viewpoints that the local government had setup for the tourist. This time, it's different. We get to walk past these rice terraces and trek along it. Quite challenging it seems. And I told the girls I have no idea if this was arduous or a walk in the park.

At past 7pm, we met at Capitol Commons and booked Uber to Sampaloc where the Ohayami Bus Terminal is located. Then at around 9pm, we arrived at Sampaloc and waited for the boarding. At this time, we already have our tickets which we bought ahead (Note: There is already an online booking in the late 2017). After boarding at roughly around 10pm, we then settled and prepared for another thrilling adventure.

Day1: Feb 12 (Friday)

Manila - Banaue ranges from around 8 - 10 hours of travel so we expect to be there at 6-8am the following morning. Passing by major highways and expressways  (NLEX, SCTEX, TPLEX), we breezed through a smooth journey after a few stops. Then at past 6am, we stopped by Lagawe, a  municipality that is a town away from Banaue. We were told there was some mechanical problems and told to alight from the bus and wait for a replacement. After the replacement arrived, we finally reached the bus stop at past 8 and we're told to register, a must for all local and foreign tourists who will be staying in Banaue including Batad. We saw our contact carrying my name  and off we go to Banaue town proper. We dropped by a restaurant for a well deserved breakfast and discussed the arrangements going to Batad.

At half past 9 in the morning, we headed to Batad, an hour or two away from Banaue via jeepney. I decided to go on topload for a more thrilling ride. Shiela and Les decided to be on the safe side so they stayed inside. Along with me on top are 2 friends and a Japanese traveler who seems excited to do this first time. Passing beautiful mountain landscapes and long & winding road, we reached Batad saddle at around10:30am. 

As soon as we arrived, there were several guide services offered and we talked to one of them to meet us at our inn after lunch for the Terraces and Tappiyah Falls tour. 

After the agreement, we then take 10-15 minute walk to reach the Batad UNESCO Heritage marker and another 10-20 minute walk towards our inn, Hillside Inn & Restaurant. The inn sits strategically on the center of their so called "amphitheater", known to have the most beautiful view of the rice terraces. We arrived at half before noon and took our lunch, trying one of the best tasting Tinola I've tasted.

After lunch and along with our guide we then headed for an exciting trek to the rice terraces and Tappiyah falls. I told the girls I have no idea how far and difficult the trek was as it was my first time as well. So off we go, starting with a light trek that traverses across rice fields, occasionally stopping by for some instagrammable shots and selfies. 

Passing along the edge of rice paddies, we reached the small store which serves as plateau and the last viewing deck for the rice terraces. What comes next is a grueling knee-breaking trek down before reaching another small store that serves as another rest area. After that brief rest yet another knee-breaking trek down before reaching a semi-gradual trail. After more than 2 hours, we finally reached the last resting area & all the ohhhs and ahhs were then replaced with wows. The falls, visible from the rest area, are a welcome respite for our tired feet. After a brief break, we then headed to the falls and took a well-deserved dip. After half an hour of a blissful dip and commune with nature, we then headed back and reached the inn at past 5,  took our dinner at around 7 and called it day at past 9, getting a well deserved rest for the day.

Day 2: Feb 13 (Saturday)

Good morning Batad!!! A beautiful view greeted us as we started our day and prepared for an exciting adventure ahead of us -- starting off with the breakfast and the amazing rice terraces in front of us. I'd recommend you have to try their local Ifugao rice, as we're told that they serve what they harvest within the area. 

And though we would have wanted to stay more, it's bye bye time and so off we go to Banaue for our trip to Sagada. We left at past 9am and arrived in Banaue just in time for the lunch. Soon after, we rented a van going to Bontoc and were told to ride a jeep going to Sagada once we reach the terminal. After almost 2 hours of never-ending zigzag paved road amidst breathtaking mountain landscapes, we reached Bontoc at half past 3pm.

When we arrived, we then boarded the jeepney going to Sagada -- this time I opted not to be on top load. We reached Sagada at almost 5pm, registered at the Tourism office and checked into Alapo's View Inn, where we booked the accommodation beforehand. After a short rest, we then headed to the Hanging Coffins, passing by the Episcopal Church, town's cemetery and the famed Echo Valley. After quick tour, we headed to the main road, trying out the Salt & Pepper restaurant's Inutom (pan-roasted chicken) meals. We ordered all 3 of their Inutom dishes (Rosemary, Mushroom and Chili). All was really good specially the Rosemary. For those who loved it hot, the chili will kick you on the first dig. The price is reasonable plus the ambiance is cool -- a good way to end the day.

Day3: Feb 14 (Sunday)

Good morning Sagada!!!! We woke up as early as 4am to catch the famed Kiltepan sunrise and sea of clouds, highly popularized by a local movie shot on the same location (remember 'That Thing Called Tadhana').  Our guide Kuya Frenel fetch us at 430AM and arrived at Kiltepan at past 5am. We were then greeted with hordes of fellow tourists, waiting for the same thing as we did. Seated  comfortably on a grassy hill, we waited for the first glimpse of sun which they say is one of a kind. Indeed it is!!! Morphing from the red-orange hue, the sun slowly greeted it's well wishers with orangey bliss, then ending with a bright yellow charm. We waited for the sea of clouds to come out as well to complete the experience but we seem unlucky for the day.  But despite this and the overcrowded tourists who came to see this beauty, we enjoyed the experience more than ever. We left Kiltepan and vowed to come back, hoping we'd be lucky next time.

Since we woke up early and still have not eaten a full meal, we were craving for a good omelet so off we go to Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant. We tried their Spanish omelet and Bangus meals and I'd say it's a super must try. Their meal included fried banana and mango which kind of completes the whole meal. I highly recommend their meals!!! We then headed to the inn to freshen up and get ready for the Cave Connection (Lumiang - Sumaguing Cave).

At around 1030AM, we started the Cave Connection with a quick orientation from our guide  (Note: A guide is a must for any cave tour for safety purposes). As soon as our guide lamp gets lighted, we started to maneuver into a small opening which can only fit one person. Kuya Frenel had to use his feet as the stepper for us to reach the flat surface. One tricky maneuver  led to another and another until we lost count of the challenges ahead. Kuya Frenel was a big help to every downslides and challenging turns we encountered.  Although this is my Spelunking No. 2  ( I was first here at 2010), the trail seems to be a bit different, somehow more difficult from my first try 6 years ago.

As we go deeper, it became darker, colder and scarier as we brace for more challenges ahead. Nevertheless, there were many "rewarding" sights that took our breaths away --- small dip pools, cathedrals of stalactites,  amazing shapes of stalagmites ranging from animal figures, curtains and that of a miniature rice terraces, not to mention meeting a lot of foreign and local tourists who are equally beheld by the beauty of this cave connection. I must say that more than half of the beautiful sights are in Sumaguing Cave so I recommend that if you do not want the Cave Connection, you can  just try the Sumaguing cave alone -- the entry and exit are the same.

Exiting the cave at around 5pm, we asked Kuya Frenel to drop us by Gaia Café & Crafts, famous again for the same movie that was shot in the same location. Perched among the dense trees with the mountain as backdrop, this vegetarian restaurant is a perfect place to commune with nature while munching for their delectable dishes. We tried their gaia barbecue and adobo rice meals & added their local food Miki Mi Na which is like a combination of bam i and canton. I must admit Sagada is a real haven for food lovers. Their Miki Mi Na is a must try. It is sweet and full of flavors. I also tried their soya café. I so loved it. This is one place I would love to visit again.

Back at the inn, we reminisced as how we fared with the challenges that day and how we bravely took it. Giggles after giggles when we recalled how we were carried by our new European friends back at the cave. This day was indeed extra special. Just imagine three daring girls out on an adventure and ended up spending Valentines thousand feet under. Just imagine.

Day 4: Feb 15 (Monday)

It's checkout time!!! But before heading off to Baguio, we made a quick pasalubong hunt along the main street and give a try to their famed Lemon Pie. We were told we have to order a day before as they only operate on a made to order basis. Despite this, we still made some good buys on weavings and souvenirs.

Before noontime, just when we thought we could immediately hop into buses plying Sagada-Baguio routes, we were proven wrong. We're told to wait for the last available bus which leaves at 5pm, which means more stroll time around Sagada.

And so a little past 5pm, we left Sagada and braced ourselves for another nauseating yet  exciting ride to Baguio. Passing by familiar rice paddies & amazing mountain landscapes and intermittent snoozes, we finally reached Baguio at past 9pm. Then at past midnight, we left Baguio, richer by experience, more eager and excited for future adventures to come.

Cheers to more enriching travels, girls!!!